Wave pool and wave generator for bi-directional and dynamically-shaped surfing waves

ABSTRACT

A wave pool and wave generating mechanism are disclosed. The wave pool includes a bathymetry that includes a dynamically shapeable reef along a length or circumference of a channel that defines the wave pool. The wave generating mechanism includes a foil that has a shape for bi-directionality based on an adjustment of a yaw angle of the foil. The foil can be further controlled to increase or decrease certain surface areas or other angles of interacting with water in the wave pool.

BACKGROUND

Ocean waves have been used recreationally for hundreds of years. One ofthe most popular sports at any beach with well-formed, breaking waves issurfing. Surfing and other board sports have become so popular, in fact,that the water near any surf break that is suitable for surfing isusually crowded and overburdened with surfers, such that each surfer hasto compete for each wave and exposure to activity is limited. Further,the majority of the planet's population does not have suitable access toocean waves in order to even enjoy surfing or other ocean wave sports.

Another problem is that the waves at any spot are varied andinconsistent, with occasional “sets” of nicely formed waves that aresought after to be ridden, interspersed with less desirable and, in somecases, unrideable waves. Even when a surfer manages to be able to ride aselected wave, the duration of the ride usually lasts only a fewseconds, with most rides being between 5 and 10 seconds long. For bothrecreational and competitive surfing, consistency, control ofvariability, size and shape are key and long-sought aspects of man-madewaves.

Various systems and techniques have been employed in an attempt toreplicate ocean waves in a man-made environment. However, none of thesesystems and techniques thus far has generated an optimal wave, except,for example, as disclosed in U.S. Patent Publication No. 2010/0124459,the contents of which are incorporated by reference herein in theirentirety. Some of these systems will generate what is known as aclassical Kelvin wake pattern, which instead of creating a largesolitary wave, distributes wave energy into multiple, smaller auxiliarywaves, or “wakes.” Still yet another problem with other artificial wavesand wave pools are a lack of bi-directionality, and the tendency for anartificial wave generator to also generate in the constrained pool asignificant amount of chop, reflective waves, and seiche.

SUMMARY

This document describes a wave pool, wave generation mechanism, and wavegenerating foil for generating a dynamic and optimal surfing wave in abody of water.

In some aspects, a wave pool is described. The wave pool has a length ora circumference, and includes a channel for containing water at a meansurface level, the channel having a first side and a second side. Atleast a portion of the channel has a cross-section, between the firstside and the second side normal to the length, that includes a deepregion in the channel at least partially along the length of the wavepool and proximate the first side, the deep region having a mean firstdepth below the mean surface level of the water contained in thechannel. The cross-section further includes a reef at least partiallyalong a length of the deep region, the reef extending upward and awayfrom the deep region to a mean second depth that is shallower than themean first depth of the deep region. The cross-section further includesa beach region that slopes up away from the reef toward the second sideto expose a beach above the mean surface level of the water, the beachregion having a convex parabolic shape with a slope that decreasestoward the second side of the channel.

In other aspects, a wave generator is disclosed for generating a wave ina pool of water, while having bi-directionality. The wave generator afoil having a vertical front surface defined by a proximal edge, adistal edge, a bottom edge and a top edge, the vertical front surfacebeing substantially symmetrical around a central vertical axis betweenthe proximal edge and the distal edge to provide substantially equalrespective first and second wave forming surfaces. Each of the first andsecond wave forming surfaces have a horizontal cross-sectional geometrythat is concave about a front vertical axis in front of the verticalfront surface thereof between a point defined by the respective proximalor distal edge and a midsection of the foil. The foil has rotation in ayaw angle about the central vertical axis to at least a first positionand a second position, each of the first and second positions forming aleading surface of one of the first and second wave forming surfaces,and forming a trailing surface of the other of the first and second waveforming surfaces. The rotation to the first or second position enablesthe leading surface to exert drag against the water when the foil movesin a horizontal direction perpendicular to the central vertical axis togenerate a primary wave in the pool, and enables the trailing surface todecrease the drag of the leading surface to minimize oscillatory wavesthat trail the primary wave from the water that moves past the leadingsurface.

The details of one or more embodiments are set forth in the accompanyingdrawings and the description below. Other features and advantages willbe apparent from the description and drawings, and from the claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

These and other aspects will now be described in detail with referenceto the following drawings.

FIG. 1 illustrates a wave pool in accordance with a description herein;

FIG. 2 illustrates a channel for a wave pool in accordance with thedescription herein;

FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a portion of the length of a channel ofa wave pool;

FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of a portion of the channel, in aperspective normal to the length (or circumference) of the channel of awave pool;

FIGS. 5A and 5B illustrate cross sections of the channel with andwithout the first trough;

FIG. 6A illustrates a reef module that can form part or all of a reefsection of a reef in a channel of a wave pool;

FIG. 6B is a close up view of the reef module of FIG. 6A including asoft top with texture members in accordance with the disclosure herein;

FIGS. 7A and 7B show alternative implementations of a reef module;

FIGS. 8A and 8B are perspective views of a foil in accordance with thedisclosure herein;

FIGS. 9A and 9B are downward, cross-sectional views of a foil inaccordance with the disclosure herein, as well as a yaw angle rotationthereof;

FIG. 10 is a perspective view of a foil located within a track, the foilattached to a vehicle by a bogie in accordance with the disclosureherein; and

FIGS. 11A and 11B illustrate top views of an implementation of a bogiefor carrying and moving a foil along a length or circumference of achannel in accordance with the disclosure herein.

Like reference symbols in the various drawings indicate like elements.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

This document describes a wave pool and a wave generator, for generatingone or more waves in the wave pool. The wave pool includes a channel ofwater defined by a first side and a second side, a track proximate tothe first side, and at least one foil that traverses the channel via thetrack, the at least one foil generating a wave in the channel of water.The channel can be linear or curvilinear, such as an arc, a semi-circle,or a circle. The channel can include a number of sections, each of whichcan be one of a linear section, a curvilinear section, or a combinationthereof. The track can be at least partially in the water contained bythe wave pool, or out of the water outside the first side of thechannel.

FIG. 1 illustrates a wave pool 100 formed of a channel 102 that isbounded and defined by a first side 104, a second side 106, a proximalend 108 and a distal end 110. The terms “first,” “second,” “proximal”and “distal” are for reference only, particularly for a channel that issymmetrical about a middle or latitudinal axis. The channel 102 of wavepool 100 is shown as substantially linear, or having a substantiallylinear section, however the channel 102 can be curvilinear or have oneor more curvilinear sections. In some implementations, i.e. a circularor oval-shaped wave pool 100 or the like, the channel 102 is definedonly by a first side 104 and a second side 106, each having a diameter.

The channel 102 is configured to hold or contain water, and has abathymetry 112, or bottom surface topography, that is configured tocooperate with a wave generator 114 to form at least one surfable wavein the wave pool 100. As will be described in further detail herein, thebathymetry 112 can include one or more deep regions for containing avolume of water, one or more reefs or sills of varied size and depth andagainst which wave energy can be concentrated to produce the surfablewaves, one or more troughs, one or more beaches, and/or one or moregutters for absorbing residual wave energy and water volume createdthereby, and returning that water volume toward a deeper part of thechannel.

The wave pool 100 further includes a track 116 along which one or morewave generators 114 can be conveyed. The track 116 can include one ormore rails or pathways or the like. Each wave generator 114 can includea vehicle 118 adapted for being conveyed along the track 116, such as bywheels attached to the vehicle 118, which form at least part of a bogie120 that can include the wheels and other framing, struts, electronics,and batteries. In some implementations, the bogie 120 can furtherinclude one or more solar panels for localized energy generation andstorage. The vehicle 118 can further include a number of sensors andstabilization mechanisms for tracking telemetry data of the movement ofthe vehicle 118, as well as stabilize the vehicle 118 on the track 116during its traversal or reversal on the track 116.

The vehicle 118 in turn is connected to, and carries, one or more foils122 at are vertically positioned at least partially in the water of thechannel 102, and which provide a unique surface for generating the waveenergy substantially laterally from the foil 122. In many instances, thefoil is also shaped and configured for flow recovery or “suck-out” afterthe main wave energy is generated, so as to minimize oscillatory wavesfollowing the initial solitary wave energy in which most orsubstantially all of the wave energy is concentrated. In someimplementations, the foil 122 is shaped and configured to bebi-directional in the wave pool 100, so as to generate either a “right”breaking wave or a “left” breaking wave, depending on a direction of thefoil 122 and vehicle 118 along the track 116.

The traversal of the vehicle 118 along the track 116 can be controlledand modulated so as to provide specific or desired acceleration,deceleration, velocity and distance of the foil(s) in the channel 102.For example, in operation, a speed of the foil 122 can be varied downthe channel 102. Such variability can be programmed by software andexecuted by a control computing system to control mechanics such as awinch or pulley system. Further, the speed variations of the foil 122can be coordinated with changes in bathymetry along the channel 102,which bathymetric changes can include a dynamically adjustable andchangeable reef. Similarly, a yaw angle, pitch angle, surface area, andbuoyancy of the foil(s) can be independently controlled and modulated toprovide specific or desired generated wave energy from the surface ofeach foil. Accordingly, dynamics changes to either or both of the foil122 or bathymetry of the channel 102 can provide a limitless number ofwaves, some of which can be programmed and branded (i.e. “Teahupoo,”“Cloudbreak,” or “Trestles” for example) and licensed for use in a wavepool installation.

FIG. 2 illustrates a channel 200 for a wave pool in accordance with thedescription herein. FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a portion of thelength of the channel 200, and FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of theportion of the channel 200, in a perspective normal to the length (orcircumference) of the channel 200. The channel 200 is illustrated inFIG. 2 as a linear channel, but can also be curvilinear, circular, oval,parabolic, or other shape. The channel 200 has a bathymetry that hasbeen shaped and formed for specific applications and/or generating aparticular type or types of surfing waves. As such, the description ofthe bathymetry of the channel 200 herein is exemplary only, and those ofskill in the art would recognize that many forms of bathymetry, such asbathymetric relationships, etc., are within the scope of this document.

In some implementations, the channel 200 includes and is defined by afirst side 201, a second side 203, a proximal end 205, and a distal end207. The terms “first,” “second,” “proximal” and “distal” are forreference only, particularly for a linear channel that is substantiallysymmetrical about a middle or latitudinal axis. A circular oroval-shaped channel 200, or the like, includes and can be defined by afirst side 201 and a second side 203, each having a diameter to form thechannel 200 therebetween.

The channel 200 has a length or a circumference, and is formed forcontaining water at a mean surface level 199. A cross-section of thechannel 200, as can also be seen in FIGS. 3 and 4, between the firstside 201 and the second side 203 normal to the length or radial to thecircumference, includes a contour or bathymetric section for cooperatingwith a moving foil for forming a surfable wave. Accordingly, a crosssection of at least a portion of the channel 200, for at least a portionof the length or circumference of the channel 200 includes a trackregion 204 proximate the first side 201, on or in which a track can bedeployed, and along which a vehicle and the foil(s) can travel. Thechannel 200 further includes a deep region proximate the first side 201and/or the track region 204. In some instances, the track region 204 canform part of the deep region 206, while in other instances the trackregion 204 is separated from the deep region 206 by a wall or shell orthe like.

The deep region 206 has a mean first depth below the mean surface level199 of the water contained in the channel 200. The bathymetry of thechannel 200 further includes a reef 208 at least partially along alength of the deep region 206, the reef 208 extending upward and awayfrom the deep region 206 to a mean second depth that is shallower thanthe mean first depth of the deep region 208. The reef 208 can havevarious contours and shapes both along its length and across a topsurface of the reef 208. The top surface 208 can be uniform in depth, ormay include one or more hills, valleys, bumps, and variances, such asfriction-forming mechanisms. In some implementations, the reef 208 canbe formed from concrete or other rigid shapeable material. In otherimplementations, at least part of the reef can be formed of reefmodules, described in further detail below, that can connect together toprovide custom variability or specific depths or shapes of the reef 208.The reef modules can be formed of concrete, stainless steel, plastic,high-density foam, or other rigid or semi-rigid material. For instance,in some implementations, some reef modules can be formed of an elastomersuch as rubber. At least some of the reef modules can be provide a softtop surface for the reef 208, and/or include one or more wave dampingmechanisms, as described in further detail below with respect to FIGS. 6and 7.

The channel 200 further includes a beach region 210 that slopes up awayfrom the reef 208 toward the second side 203 to expose a beach 211 abovethe mean surface level of the water 199, as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4. Thebeach 211 can extend 1 to 6 feet, or higher, above the mean surfacelevel of the water 199 in the channel 200. The beach region 210 includesa convex (relative to a downward view) parabolic shape, with a slopethat begins in the water near the reef 208, and which slope decreasestoward the second side 203 of the channel 200, to eventually expose thebeach 211, by which point the beach region is close or substantiallyhorizontal. The first objective of the convex parabolic shape of thebeach region 210 is to completely eliminate the reflected wave of thefirst main wave, by spreading in length (in both the direction of traveland lateral direction) the energy contained in swell or whitewaterwithout giving it any upward/downward momentum. The convex shape willalso compress and suppress smaller waves within the rush of waterdisplaced by the main surfing wave, essentially damping out waves thatrefract or reflect between the surface of the beach region 210 and themean surface 199 of the water.

In some implementations, the channel 200 can include a first trough 216adjacent the reef 208 opposite the deep region 206. The first trough 216has a mean third depth that is deeper than the mean second depth of thereef 208. The first trough 216 can absorb some of the wave energy from awave, and allow the wave to reform and break against the beach region210, and/or the wave taller by turning a boxy barrel in a more vertical“almond” shape. Without the first trough 216, a barrel of the wave, ifthe wave energy is sufficient to cause the wave to barrel, can be deeperand longer, allowing more space for a surfer to “get in the barrel.”FIGS. 5A and 5B illustrate cross sections of the channel with andwithout the first trough 216. As can be seen, where the reef 208 extendsto the beach region 210, a barrel of the wave extends longer, as theextended reef allows a bottom of the wave to slow down with respect to atop of the wave, which barrels over the slowing bottom water of thewave.

In some implementations, the channel 200 includes a gutter 212 betweenthe beach 211 and the second side 203 of the channel 200. The gutter 212is defined by a first side, a bottom and a second side. The first sideof the gutter 212 descends from the beach 211 to the bottom of thegutter 212, which has a mean fourth depth below the mean surface level199 of the water in the channel 200. The second side ascends from thebottom of the gutter to a height above the mean surface level 199 of thewater. The back wall of the gutter 212 could be substituted with anotherconvex beach, leading to a lagoon or other water feature. The gutter 212can further include obstacles or other current-impeding mechanisms.

In exemplary implementations, the gutter 212 has dimensions to provide avolume relative to a volume of water of a wave that washes over thebeach 211 and into the gutter. In some cases, the gutter will receive 20to 80 percent of the volume of water in the wave that washes over thebeach 211, and in preferred exemplary implementations, the ratio isapproximately 50%. The capacity of the gutter 212 is relative to thevolume of water in the wave. On a per foot basis, the mean fourth depthof the gutter 212 is about half the height of the wave, and half of thelength of the wave from the peak of wave to end of the wave. One or morewater returns 214, such as channels from the gutter 212 through at leastpart of the beach region 210, can be provided to guide water in thegutter 212 back toward the channel 200, i.e. toward the deep region 206of the channel 200. Depending on the linearity or shape of the channel200, the water returns 214 can be directed horizontally back to thechannel 200, or may be angled, such as angled 20-80 degrees against amean water flow in a direction of the moving foil. In yet otherimplementations, as shown in FIG. 2, water returns at the proximal anddistal ends can be angled toward those ends, respectively, whileintermediate water returns 214 are directed straight back toward thechannel 200. In yet other implementations, the water returns 214 canflare out from a narrow, deep portion to a wider but shallowertopography. The number of water returns 214 can be selected to inhibitwater recirculation at either end of the gutter 212. In yet otherimplementations, the gutter 212 can include gratings and/or cavitieslinked to pipes toward the deep area which can either replace or augmentthe water returns.

In some implementations, the gutter 212 and/or water returns 214 caninclude one or more flow control mechanisms, such as a net with ameasured degree of porosity, or a steerable vane or paddle, to controlthe flow of water therein. The flow control mechanisms can be padded toensure safety of persons in the water.

FIG. 6A illustrates a reef module 600 that can form part or all of areef section of a reef in a channel of a wave pool. The reef module 600can be formed of any material suitable to maintain its general shape, soas to withstand a large amount of water pressure from wave energy thatit compresses in order to form a wave from the wave energy. The reefmodule 600 can have a rigid bottom or core, with a flexible or pliableouter our upper surface. In some instances, the reef module 600 includesa soft top 602. The soft top 602 can provide a surface against which asurfer can fall and minimize potential injury. The soft top 602 caninclude a number of texture members 604 for providing additional wavedamping and friction forming, as well as current control proximate theupper surface of the reef module 600. FIG. 6B is a close up view of thesoft top 602 with texture members 604.

In some instances, the texture members 604 can include one or moreridges, flaps, valleys, grooves, sponges (which can mimic coral reefs,for instance), or real or artificial sea vegetation. The one or moretexture members 604 can be attached to the top surface of the reefmodule 600, such as in parallel alignment in an array, and can beattached by a mechanical anchor or other attachment mechanism. The oneor more texture members 604 can be attached or detached depending on adesired damping or friction needing to be formed. In some instances, thetexture members 604 are formed of a durable material, such as a rubberof appropriate durometer, that can withstand chlorine and/or ultraviolet(UV) light breakdown, while still maintaining pliability or flexibility.The one or more texture members 604 can also be quickly interchangeablewith new and/or different-sized texture members 604. The texture members604 can be planar, angular, or rounded, and can include any number ofholes, apertures, baffles, or outer surface texturing. In someimplementations, sharp edges are avoided as a surfer may eventuallycontact the reef module 600.

FIGS. 7A and 7B show alternative implementations of a reef module 700and 702, respectively. FIG. 7A shows a reef module 700 as a hollow,truncated pyramid, with one or more holes or apertures extending from anouter surface of the reef module 700 to an inner space. FIG. 7B shows areef module 702 also as a hollow three-dimensional shape, but astruncated at an angle. A reef module can include one or more of anair-fillable bladder, a water-fillable bladder, or other elastomericshape that can change in volume by being filled or depleted of a fluid.Alternatively, the reef module 700 or 702, can include a mechanical orpneumatic moving system to raise or lower at least a portion of the reefmodule, such as a top surface, or the entire module, to a desired heightand/or angle from the bottom of the channel to dynamically adjust andalter the shape of the reef at the position of the respective reefmodule 700, 702.

In cooperation with the bathymetry of a channel of a wave pool asdescribed above, the other key component for generating an optimalsurfable wave is a wave generator to generate wave energy substantiallylaterally in the wave pool (i.e. normal or orthogonal to the directionof travel of the wave generator, and across the length of the channel).As described in U.S. Patent Publication No. 20130061382, the contents ofwhich are incorporated by reference herein for all purposes, the wavegenerator includes at least one foil having a curvilinearcross-sectional geometry that includes a leading surface that is concaveabout a vertical axis to provide and maximize drag of water against theleading surface, thereby generating wave energy laterally from theleading surface of the foil to form a primary wave. The concavityextends to an inflection point to turn convex toward a maximum width,beyond which is a trailing surface. To maximize this wave energy, thefoil further includes the trailing surface that narrows from the maximumwidth of the foil adjacent the leading surface to a point at an end ofthe foil, where the trailing surface decreases the drag of the foil andminimizes oscillatory waves that trail the primary wave from the watermoving past the leading surface of the foil. The trailing surface canalso include a convex surface from the maximum width to an inflectionpoint after which the trailing surface becomes concave.

In some aspects, the trailing edge is partially designed such that thewater elevation on both sides of the recovery part of the foil matcheach other when they meet at the very tip in order to reduce vortexgeneration. Sometimes, a small vortex with little effect on foilefficiency can be present on purpose for lateral force reduction,meaning both waterlines do not perfectly match at the respective tips.

To maximize the primary wave, it was determined that a length of thetrailing surface must exceed a length of the leading surface, and anydegree of concavity of the trailing surface, if any, must be much lessthan the degree of concavity of the leading surface. Thus, for a foilthat is adapted for movement by a moving mechanism in only one directionalong the first side of a linear or circular pool, the foil isasymmetrical, and therefore not adapted for bi-directional movement.Accordingly, prior foils could not be bi-directional, and could notgenerate both an optimal “right” and “left” breaking wave.

In accordance with implementations described herein, a wave generatorincludes one or more foils, where each foil is bi-directional andsubstantially symmetrical around a vertical axis. In order to compensatefor the symmetry, in reference to prior foils, the foil described hereinis able to pivot in a yaw angle to expose more concavity on a leadingsurface, and lessen the recovery concavity on a trailing surface,depending on which direction the foil is moving. Thus, thebi-directional foil of the present disclosure can approximate thelength-wise shape, dimensions, and characteristics of an optimaluni-directional foil.

FIGS. 8A and 8B are perspective views of a foil in accordance with thedisclosure herein. As shown in FIG. 8A, a foil 300 for a wave generatorincludes a vertical front surface 302 (i.e. the surface that would befacing toward the reef in the channel). The front surface 302 is definedby a proximal edge 304, a distal edge 306, a bottom edge 308 and a topedge 310. The vertical front surface 302 is substantially symmetricalaround a central vertical axis a between the proximal edge 304 and thedistal edge 306, to provide substantially equal respective first andsecond wave forming surfaces 312 and 313, each of the first and secondwave forming surfaces 312, 313 having a horizontal cross-sectionalgeometry that is concave about a front vertical axis in front of thevertical front surface thereof between a point defined by the respectiveproximal or distal edge 304, 306 and a midsection 314 of the foil. Bothwave forming surfaces 312, 313 contribute to forming the wave, eitheracting as a leading edge to provide drag against the water to generate aprimary wave, or as a trailing edge for flow recovery and minimizingoscillatory waves trailing the primary wave.

As shown also in reference to FIGS. 9A and 9B, the foil 300 is rotatablein a yaw angle γ about the central vertical axis a to at least a firstposition and a second position, each of the first and second positionsforming a leading surface of one of the first and second wave formingsurfaces 312, 313, and forming a trailing surface of the other of thefirst and second wave forming surfaces 312, 313. The rotation to thefirst or second position enables the leading surface to exert dragagainst the water when the foil 300 moves in a horizontal directionsubstantially perpendicular to the central vertical axis, in a directionβ, to generate a primary wave in the pool, and enables the trailingsurface to decrease the drag of the leading surface to minimizeoscillatory waves that trail the primary wave from the water that movespast the leading surface. In some implementations, the foil 300 includesa vertical back surface having a V-shape outward about the centralvertical axis a, with a vertex 317 opposite the front surface at themidsection 314 of the foil, and substantially straight or planar sides318, 319 extending toward each of the proximal edge 304 and the distaledge 306 respectively, to form a leading back surface and a trailingback surface in the first position and the second position,respectively.

In some instances, the leading back surface is vertically oriented to beparallel to the horizontal direction β in the first position or thesecond position, as shown in FIG. 9A, where side 318 of back wall 316 issubstantially parallel to the horizontal direction β, while in otherinstances, depending on the yaw angle γ, the leading back surface can beslightly off parallel to the horizontal direction β, as shown in FIG.9B. The yaw angle γ can be controlled and locked to any angle, butpreferably between 0 and 20 degrees, and more preferably between 0 and10 degrees. The yaw angle γ can be adjusted to any increment of a radianas desired.

The central vertical axis c of the foil 300 can include a pivot bearing320 around which the foil can pivot according to the yaw angle γ. Thepivot bearing 320 can include a post 400 or other extending structure toconnect with a bogie 402, as shown in FIG. 9. Actuators 330 can becontrolled to push or pull opposing sides of the foil, and lock into thedesired yaw angle γ. The actuators 330 can include, without limitation,hydraulic, linear motors, jack screws, belt-driven drive systems, airbags, or the like. The actuators 330 work in concert with a lockingdevice, which locks the foil 300 in the desired yaw angle γ. Lockingdevices can include pins, screws, latches, or the like. The actuatorand/or locking device may include a cam locking device, which includes adeflector at one or both ends of a channel (if linear), whichmechanically deflects the foil into a new locking position, using a camthat disengages the locks, and pushes into a new programmed position.The programmed position can be variable. In other implementations, suchan actuator/locking system can adjust not only yaw, but also pitch androll of the foil, which adjustment can be executed dynamically duringmovement of the foil 300 through water.

In some implementations, the foil 300 can include a top plate 340 thatextends up from the top edge 310 of one or both of the first and secondwave forming surfaces 312, 313, especially the wave forming surfaceacting as the leading surface. The top edge 310 can extend partially orall the way along the top edge 310, and can variable heights above thetop edge of the foil 300. The top plate 340 can be mechanically ormanually deployable to an extended position, or mechanically or manuallyretracted to a retracted position. The top plate 340 can be used todynamically increase (or decrease, if retracted) a surface area of thefirst and/or second wave forming surfaces 312, 313, particularly, asabove, such wave forming surfaces are deployed as a leading surface forthe foil 300.

In yet other implementations, the foil can include a bottom plate 342that extends down from the bottom edge 308 of at least one, or both, ofthe first and second wave forming surfaces 312, 313. As with the topplate 340, the bottom plate 342 can extend partially or entirely alongthe bottom edge 308 of the foil 300, and can vary in a depth that itprotrudes therefrom. Also, as with the top plate 340, the bottom plate342 can be mechanically or manually deployable or retractable. Thebottom plate 342 can also be used to dynamically increase (or decrease,if retracted) the surface area of the first and/or second wave formingsurfaces 312, 313, particularly, as above, when such wave formingsurfaces are deployed as a leading surface for the foil 300, or asfurther surface area for flow recovery when retracted as a trailingsurface.

The foil 300 can further include a top surface 350 and a bottom surface352, such the vertical front surface 302, vertical back surface 316, thetop surface 350 and the bottom surface 352 form a three-dimensionalcontainer. The container can include one or more individualcompartments. Each compartment can be air-filled and sealed, orwater-filled, for buoyancy control of the foil 300. The water-filledcompartments can include one or more holes, passages, apertures, slots,or the like, that can be adjustable to control an amount of waterflowing through, so as to modulate a static mass of the water-filledcompartments.

In some implementations, the foil 300 can have a hydrofoil, i.e.extending from the bottom surface 352, to provide lift to the foil 300when moving through water. The hydrofoil can be steerable or tunable fora particular pitch or yaw. Such steering or tuning can occur dynamicallyas the foil 300 traverses the channel, to provide dynamically changingwave profiles and characteristics.

In yet other implementations, the foil 300 can include, or be attachedwith, a roll-adjusting mechanism to adjust a roll angle of the verticalfront surface 302, so as to allow an angled departure from truevertical, i.e. 90 degrees from horizontal. Accordingly, the foil 300 canbe rolled +/−up to 10 degrees. Such roll adjustment can also occurdynamically as the foil 300 traverses the channel, to further providedynamically changing wave profiles and characteristics. The deploymentof the hydrofoil, the adjustment of the roll angle, and the adjustmentof the yaw angle can be done individually or in concert with at leastone of the other adjustments.

Referring back to FIG. 1, wave pools in accordance with the disclosureherein include a track 116, along which a foil is moved in the water togenerate a solitary wave. The foil 300 can be attached to a vehicle bythe bogie 402, as shown in FIG. 10. The bogie 402 can include a truss orsystem of beams and supports, to connect to a vehicle that moves alongthe track 116. Alternatively, the bogie 402 can incorporate the vehicle,and be moved by an external motive force such as a wench orcable-pulling engine.

FIGS. 11A and 11B illustrate an implementation of a bogie 500 forcarrying and moving a foil along a length or circumference of a channel.The bogie 500 is configured for being coupled with, and conveyed along,a track along a first side of the channel. The bogie 500 includes atruss 502 that includes a set of posts, struts, beams, or the like, toprovide a supporting platform from which the foil hangs. In otherimplementations, the foil can be attached to a side of the bogie 500 bya set of supporting members. In still yet other implementations, thefoil can extend up from a bogie and vehicle that traverses a submersedtrack in a deep region of a wave pool. As shown in FIG. 11B, the truss502 can support one or more solar panels 506 for providing electricityto an inboard battery system 508, or to power any of one or more sensorsand/or computer control systems.

The wave pool and/or wave generating mechanism can be outfitted with oneor more sensors to provide feedback on water conditions, wave quality,or the like. For instance, in some implementations, the wave poolincludes a seiche sensor at each of the proximal and distal ends of alinear or curvilinear channel, to measure the seiche cycle orperiodicity of the seiche. Accordingly, the wave generating mechanismcan be run in a fashion that is coordinated with the seiche cycle, i.e.to start a wave when the water level nearby is either higher or lowerfrom the seiche. In some implementations, the sensors include capacitivewave gauges, but could also include accelerometers, speed sensors,ultrasonic sensors, or pressure sensors. Data from any of these sensorscan be recorded and accumulated to further define or tune the waves inthe wave pool.

Although a few embodiments have been described in detail above, othermodifications are possible. Other embodiments may be within the scope ofthe following claims.

1. A wave pool having a length, the wave pool comprising: a channel for containing water at a mean surface level, the channel having a first side and a second side, at least a portion of the channel having a cross-section, between the first side and the second side normal to the length, that comprises: a deep region in the channel at least partially along the length of the wave pool and proximate the first side, the deep region having a mean first depth below the mean surface level of the water contained in the channel; a reef at least partially along a length of the deep region, the reef extending upward and away from the deep region to a mean second depth that is shallower than the mean first depth of the deep region; and a beach region that slopes up away from the reef toward the second side to expose a beach above the mean surface level of the water, the beach region having a convex parabolic shape with a slope that decreases toward the second side of the channel.
 2. The wave pool in accordance with claim 1, further comprising a gutter between the beach and the second side of the channel, the gutter being defined by a first side, a bottom and a second side, the first side descending from the beach to the bottom having mean fourth depth below the mean surface level of the water in the channel, the second side ascending from the bottom to a height above the mean surface level of the water.
 3. The wave pool in accordance with claim 2, further comprising one or more water return channels from the gutter through at least part of the beach region, to guide water in the gutter back toward the deep region.
 4. The wave pool in accordance with claim 1, wherein the mean second depth of the reef varies along the length of the pool in the portion of the channel.
 5. The wave pool in accordance with claim 1, further comprising a first trough adjacent the reef opposite the deep region, the first trough having a mean third depth that is deeper than the mean second depth of the reef.
 6. The wave pool in accordance with claim 1, wherein the reef includes one or more reef modules attached to a bottom surface of the channel proximate the deep region.
 7. The wave pool in accordance with claim 6, wherein at least some of the one or more reef modules include one or more wave damping mechanisms.
 8. The wave pool in accordance with claim 5, further comprising a second trough in the deep region, the second trough having a mean fifth depth that is deeper than the mean first depth.
 9. The wave pool in accordance with claim 8, wherein the mean fifth depth varies along the length of the wave pool.
 10. The wave pool in accordance with claim 1, wherein a shape of the channel is selected from the set of shapes that consist of: a linear channel, a circular channel, a curvilinear channel, an oval channel, or a U-shaped channel.
 11. A wave generator for generating a wave in a pool of water and having bi-directionality, the wave generator comprising: a foil having a vertical front surface defined by a proximal edge, a distal edge, a bottom edge and a top edge, the vertical front surface being substantially symmetrical around a central vertical axis between the proximal edge and the distal edge to provide substantially equal respective first and second wave forming surfaces, each of the first and second wave forming surfaces having a horizontal cross-sectional geometry that is concave about a front vertical axis in front of the vertical front surface thereof between a point defined by the respective proximal or distal edge and a midsection of the foil, the foil having rotation in a yaw angle about the central vertical axis to at least a first position and a second position, each of the first and second positions forming a leading surface of one of the first and second wave forming surfaces, and forming a trailing surface of the other of the first and second wave forming surfaces, the rotation to the first or second position enabling the leading surface to exert drag against the water when the foil moves in a horizontal direction perpendicular to the central vertical axis to generate a primary wave in the pool, and enabling the trailing surface to decrease the drag of the leading surface to minimize oscillatory waves that trail the primary wave from the water that moves past the leading surface.
 12. The wave generator in accordance with claim 11, further comprising a vertical back surface having a V-shape having a vertex that faces outward about the central vertical axis toward each of the proximal edge and the distal edge to form a leading back surface and a trailing back surface in the first position and the second position, respectively.
 13. The wave generator in accordance with claim 12, wherein the leading back surface is vertically oriented to be substantially parallel to the horizontal direction in the first position or the second position.
 14. The wave generator in accordance with claim 11, further comprising a bottom plate extending down from the bottom edge of at least one of the first and second wave forming surfaces.
 15. The wave generator in accordance with claim 11, further comprising a top plate extending up from the top edge of at least one of the first and second wave forming surfaces.
 16. The wave generator in accordance with claim 12, further comprising a top surface and a bottom surface, and wherein the vertical front surface, vertical back surface, the top surface and the bottom surface form a three-dimensional container.
 17. The wave generator in accordance with claim 16, wherein the three-dimensional container includes one or more compartments.
 18. The wave generator in accordance with claim 17, wherein the one or more compartments includes one or more water or air fillable sections for buoyancy control of the foil.
 19. The wave generator in accordance with claim 18, wherein the one or more compartments includes one or more water-filled sections, and wherein each water-filled section includes one or more apertures for water flow therethrough.
 20. The wave generator in accordance with claim 11, wherein the yaw angle is tunable to achieve one of a number of generated waves.
 21. A wave pool having a length, the wave pool comprising: a channel having a length, the channel for containing water at a mean surface level and having a first side and a second side, at least a portion of the channel having a cross-section, between the first side and the second side normal to the length, that comprises: a deep region in the channel at least partially along the length of the wave pool and proximate the first side, the deep region having a mean first depth below the mean surface level of the water contained in the channel; a reef at least partially along a length of the deep region, the reef extending upward and away from the deep region to a mean second depth that is shallower than the mean first depth of the deep region; and a beach region that slopes up away from the [reef?] toward the second side to expose a beach above the mean surface level of the water, the beach region having a convex parabolic shape with a slope that decreases toward the second side of the channel; a track along on the first side of the channel; and at least one foil that is movable along the track in each of two directions along the track, the at least one foil comprising a vertical front surface defined by a proximal edge, a distal edge, a bottom edge and a top edge, the vertical front surface being substantially symmetrical around a central vertical axis between the proximal edge and the distal edge to provide substantially equal respective first and second wave forming surfaces, each of the first and second wave forming surfaces having a horizontal cross-sectional geometry that is concave about a front vertical axis in front of the vertical front surface thereof between a point defined by the respective proximal or distal edge and a midsection of the foil, the foil having rotation in a yaw angle about the central vertical axis to at least a first position and a second position, each of the first and second positions forming a leading surface of one of the first and second wave forming surfaces, and forming a trailing surface of the other of the first and second wave forming surfaces, the rotation to the first or second position enabling the leading surface to exert drag against the water when the foil moves in a horizontal direction perpendicular to the central vertical axis to generate a primary wave in the pool, and enabling the trailing surface to decrease the drag of the leading surface to minimize oscillatory waves that trail the primary wave from the water that moves past the leading surface. 